Frequently Asked Questions

If your system isn't working, here's a quick way to narrow down what's going on before you pick up the phone:No heat or no cooling at all:Check your thermostat first – is it set to "heat" or "cool" (not "off" or "fan only"), and is the set temperature actually above/below the current room temp?Check the batteries in your thermostat if the screen is blank or unresponsiveCheck your breaker panel for a tripped breaker, and check that any switch near your furnace or outdoor AC unit (they often look like a light switch) hasn't been bumped offCheck your air filter – a filter that's completely clogged can cause some systems to shut down as a safety measureSystem runs but doesn't seem to be heating or cooling well:Check if vents throughout the house are open and unblocked by furniture or rugsCheck your filter again. Restricted airflow is one of the most common causes of poor performanceNote whether it's happening in the whole house or just one or two rooms. This helps us know if it's a system issue or a ductwork/airflow issueSystem is making noise, cycling on and off quickly, or won't stay running:Note what the noise sounds like (banging, squealing, clicking) and when it happens (starting up, running, shutting off). This detail helps us diagnose faster over the phone or when we arriveIf it's shutting off repeatedly and not restarting, don't keep resetting it. That can be a safety feature protecting your system (or your home) from a real problemWhen to stop troubleshooting and call us right away:You smell gas, see a flame that looks off, or notice signs of a carbon monoxide issue: get everyone out and call 911 firstAnything involves opening the furnace cabinet, touching wiring, or messing with refrigerant linesYou've checked the basics above and nothing's changedEven if you can't fully diagnose the issue yourself, walking through this list gives us a head start when you do call, and sometimes it's something as simple as a breaker or a filter that saves you a service call altogether. Call us at 651-398-1100 with what you've found and we'll take it from there.

As a general rule, standard 1-inch filters should be changed every 1-3 months, more often if you have pets, allergies, remodel projects or run your system constantly during peak season. Thicker 4-5 inch media filters can often go 6-12 months between changes. A dirty filter restricts airflow, forces your system to work harder, and is one of the most common causes of service calls we see.

Start with your thermostat. If the fan is set to "On" instead of "Auto," the blower runs all the time, including between heating cycles, so you'll feel room-temperature air from the vents whenever the burners are off. Switching the fan to "Auto" usually fixes it.A little cool air right when the furnace starts up is also normal. Most furnaces light the burners first and give the heat exchanger about a minute to warm up before the blower comes on, so the first air through the ducts can feel cool.If you have a heat pump, cooler-feeling air is often normal too. A heat pump heats your home with air that's warm but not as hot as a gas furnace puts out, often somewhere in the 90s. That can feel cool on your hand even while it's doing its job. The real test is whether your rooms are reaching the temperature you set on the thermostat.If the air stays cold for more than a few minutes and your house is getting cooler, that's a real problem. Common causes include a clogged air filter that makes the furnace overheat and shut the burners off for safety, a dirty flame sensor, an ignition problem, or, on high-efficiency furnaces, a clogged or frozen condensate drain line. Check your filter first. If that doesn't solve it, call us at 651-398-1100 and we'll track down the cause.

There are many reasons a central air system could lose capacity. First would be a dirty condenser (the unit outside). Yard debris can clog the fins of the condenser and make it work a lot harder. Second, the unit could be low on refrigerant. If that's the case, the suction line (the big insulated copper line) will start to freeze up outside by the unit if it runs long enough. This would also require a service tech.Third, check your furnace filter. A dirty filter restricts airflow and makes it harder for your system to cool.Fourth, make sure ALL vents in the house are open, even in a bedroom no one uses. The heating and cooling system is designed to cool the whole house. Make sure furniture and rugs are not blocking any of the vents.Fifth, the compressor could be getting weak. When this happens, high pressure leaks into the low-pressure side of the air conditioner, causing temperatures to rise. This will require a new compressor or a new condensing unit.Basically, if it's more than a dirty air filter, your best bet is to have us out to look your system over. Call us today at 651-398-1100 for more assistance or to schedule a service call.

Short cycling usually points to something making your system think it's done its job too soon, like a dirty air filter, a thermostat placed in the wrong spot, low refrigerant, or an oversized unit. It's hard on your equipment and can lead to bigger repairs down the road. Give us a call at 651-398-1100 and we'll track down the cause.

Banging, rattling, squealing, or clicking noises are your system's way of telling you something isn't right: loose parts, worn belts, or components that need attention. It's best not to ignore new or unusual noises. Call us at 651-398-1100 and we'll take a listen.

This could be as simple as dead batteries or a tripped breaker, or it could point to a wiring or system issue. Try replacing the batteries first. If that doesn't do it, call us at 651-398-1100 and we'll get it sorted out.

A slight burning smell when you first turn on your furnace for the season is often just dust burning off and usually clears up on its own. But a persistent or strong odor could mean something more serious. If the smell doesn't go away quickly, turn off your system and call us right away at 651-398-1100

A spike in your energy bill can mean your system is working harder than it should, often due to a dirty filter, leaky ductwork, low refrigerant, or an aging system nearing the end of its life. Regular maintenance can help catch these issues early. Call us at 651-398-1100 to schedule a check-up.

Older furnaces use a small standing pilot light, while most modern furnaces use an electronic ignitor instead. Either way, if it won't stay lit, it usually comes down to a dirty flame sensor, a weak or failing thermocouple (on older units), a faulty ignitor, a draft blowing the flame out, or dust buildup around the burner assembly.If the pilot light goes out as soon as you release the button, that typically points to a faulty thermocouple. It's a more involved repair that requires special tools, so we strongly recommend hiring a professional. If the pilot light won't even start while you're holding the button down, the issue is likely gas not reaching the furnace. Sometimes it's just an air bubble in the line that clears if you hold the button long enough, but that's hard to know for sure, and it could also be a damaged supply line. Either way, this is a job for a professional.Because this involves gas and combustion, it's not something we recommend troubleshooting yourself. A furnace that keeps shutting off its flame is doing exactly what it's designed to do for safety, but it also means your home isn't getting heat until the issue is fixed. Call us at 651-398-1100 and we'll safely diagnose and repair it so your furnace is reliably heating your home again.

A frozen AC unit is one of the more common issues we see, and it almost always points back to one of two things: restricted airflow or low refrigerant.Restricted airflow can happen for a lot of reasons: a dirty air filter, blocked or closed vents, a dirty evaporator coil, or a struggling blower motor. When your system can't pull in enough warm air, the coil gets too cold, and moisture in the air starts to freeze on it instead of draining away normally. Low refrigerant causes a similar problem. Without the right amount of refrigerant, pressure in the system drops and the coil can get cold enough to freeze even with good airflow.The good news is that a simple fix, like swapping a dirty filter, can sometimes solve it. But running your system while it's frozen can make things worse. Ice can damage the compressor and other components, turning a small issue into an expensive repair. If you notice ice or frost building up, turn your system off, let it thaw completely (this can take several hours), and give us a call at 651-398-1100. We'll find the root cause and get your AC running safely again.

A good rule of thumb is the 50% rule: if the repair cost is 50% or more of what a new system would cost, replacement usually makes more sense. Age matters too. Furnaces typically last 15-20 years and air conditioners 12-15 years, so if your system is getting up there in age and needs a costly repair, that's often a sign it's time to consider replacing rather than reinvesting in an older unit.A few other things worth factoring:Frequency of repairs – if you're calling us more than once a year, ongoing repair costs can add up fastEnergy bills – older, less efficient systems often cost more to run, so a new system can pay off over time in savingsComfort – if certain rooms are never quite right no matter what we fix, it may point to a system that's not the right fit for your homeThere's no one-size-fits-all answer, which is why we offer a free, in-home, no-obligation estimate. We'll look at your system's age, condition, and repair history, and give you honest options so you can decide what's right for your home and budget. Call us at 651-398-1100 and we'll help you figure it out.

An AC that never cycles off is often either undersized for the home, low on refrigerant, or dealing with a dirty condenser coil restricting heat transfer. Constant running drives up energy bills and adds wear to the compressor, the most expensive component to replace.

Yes. In cold weather, high-efficiency furnaces can produce visible plumes of water vapor from their exhaust vent. Because they extract more heat from the combustion gases, mostly water vapor is left behind. This is different from smoke and is a sign of a properly working high-efficiency system.

This is often normal. The colder it gets outside, the harder your furnace has to work to maintain your set temperature, so longer or near-constant run times during a deep cold snap aren't necessarily a problem. That said, if your home still isn't reaching temperature or the furnace never seems to catch up, it's worth having it checked.

It's common for high-efficiency furnaces to develop some frost or ice around the intake and exhaust pipes during extreme cold since they vent water vapor as part of normal operation. However, if ice is fully blocking the vent, it can cause the furnace to shut down for safety. Clear visible snow or ice away from the vent pipes after storms, and call us if the furnace won't restart.

Yes. As homes stay sealed up tight during Minnesota winters, proper furnace venting becomes even more important, since exhaust gases have less chance to escape naturally. Make sure you have working carbon monoxide detectors, and if your furnace hasn't been inspected recently, it's worth having the venting, gas pressure, and CO levels checked, especially before the coldest months hit. Safety note: IInstall CO detectors on every level of your home, especially near bedrooms, and test them regularly. Just like smoke detectors, they need fresh batteries and shouldn't be older than 5 to 7 years. Never run a generator, grill, or other fuel-burning equipment in a garage or enclosed space, even with the door open. Don't ignore warning signs like headaches, dizziness, or nausea that improve when you leave the house. These can be early symptoms of CO exposure. If you ever suspect a CO leak, get everyone outside immediately and call 911, then reach out to us at 651-398-1100 once it's safe to do so.

No. At this time we don't sell parts. We're a service-based company, not a parts retailer. If your system needs a repair, our technicians bring what's needed to diagnose and fix the problem as part of the service call, sourcing and installing the right parts for your specific equipment. Call us at 651-398-1100 and we'll get a technician out to take care of it for you.